I surfed Pacifica with Eric today. It was weird being there without Jed because that was our surf spot last summer when Jed was still living here. But I managed to surf without my surf mentor.
The conditions were actually quite nice. Beautifully sunny and clear day. Negligible winds. Comfortable waves.
One of my favorite things about surfing is that while I’m on the board, getting pommeled by the waves, I get a lot of time to think… about the next wave and life.
I discussed with Karla my surfism today:
kingisrey: ive been doing thinking too.. on the waves
Babeehug: What happened?
kingisrey: the waves kept on crashing and bashing into me
Babeehug: What was the conclusion?
kingisrey: conclusion was that waves will do that, no matter where u r
Babeehug: I wanted to go into the ocean so bad today
kingisrey: and its no one’s fault. its just that that’s what waves do,
Babeehug: They sure the hell do
kingisrey: and i chose to be there in the water, crashing right back at them
kingisrey: but i did that because i knew in order to achieve my goal, i would have to go through the waves
Babeehug: And you can’t always stay in the white water
Babeehug: Eventually, you gotta go out in the greens
kingisrey: so its not h’s fault that i am working on the weekends…
kingisrey: but because im going to denver and went to the east coast, which will help me get to those future goals… this is what i need to do.
Deep thoughts, catalyzed by the water. The summer at work is always a bit choppy, but I know I will get through the waves eventually.